Hi folks. I've been asked by a few here to show how I made my 3D effect raised detail buildings. So here is my step by step guide of how I do them.
First of all these buildings are all free to download for personal use from Hawk themselves.
Hawk Wargames Downloads Page You will need to make sure you have enough copies for the building you are doing. This one has all 4 sides on a single page. But some need 2 or 4 prints for a single building. Some of the buildings have to be printed on A3 paper, so I can't do them right now. But the one I'm using here and others are available on A4.
I used for this example building the 4x2 Mixed Residential and the 4x2 Roofs. I printed off 2 copies of the building walls, and 1 copy of the roof.
I've used 5mm Foam Core and 2 thicknesses of card.
Measuring the length and hight of the building from the print off, I marked and cut out the pieces from the 5mm Foam Core. Remember the hight needs to be the hight of the building less the parapet at the roof. Also, you need to remember to minus the thickness of BOTH foam core sides when cutting the width of the end pieces.
I use clear tape to fasten the foam core pieces together instead of glue. Its quicker, easier and provides a superior hold. Also when the print outs are glued on, you wont see it.
Next I cut out and glued on the FIRST layer of print out, and glued them on with a glue stick. If using a glue stick, I find it is better to apply glue to both the foam core and the print before attaching. I started with the roof as I found on an earlier build, the roof is harder to get right once put on after the walls. Remember the parapet is raised above the hight of the roof and folded over so its detailed from both sides.
At this stage I cut out the sections of detail I wanted to be raised (3D) from the second print out and glued them to the 2 thicknesses of card. I then left both the building so far and these detail pieces till the next day in order for the glue to really dry and set. That isn't a must, but I find it helps when cutting the detail out, or the print can start to separate from the card.
Next I glue these directly over the detail on the on the main building, like for like. The Lobby level, parapet and any balconies I used the thick card for. The level separation (and window boxes if it had them) I use the thin card for.
Generally after this stage is complete, I would recomend painting the entire model with something to seal it, or the 3D layer and or the print itself can start pealing off. Spray varnish doesn't work for this unfortunately. So maybes a clear wood varnish, or even PVA. I have used a very pale Teak varnish on some building I did earlier because I wanted them to look a little more weathered. But I think it made them a little too dark. This also dulls down the white edges of card on the raised detail. Although you could easily go over them with a pencil lead to blend them in a little.
On the one above, I used some of the waste piece I cut out of the detail to make the corners of the building, top to bottom.
The one above is the first one I tried the 3D detailing on. Instead of just doing the level breaks, I cut out each window... all 90 of them. It looks good, but its a pain. I wouldn't recomend it.
I love the pictures in the rule book and website that show the cities that have been abandoned and derralict for 200 years. All over grown. So I've been trying it out using various Scenic flock. These are a bit too bright grren for my tastes, but I have something more believable that I'll be doing when I start building a board properly.
Anywho. I hope this has been helpful and informative. Any questions or comments, please feel free to comment below.