Gesso has a texture similar to yogurt. Once it drys on a tile/container you can peel it off like rubber. Although you can clean up with water (wash brushes out normally) you cannot thin it with water as that affects the drying instead a special thinner is required. In fact as is shown in the Dakkadakka article I linked before, thinning down only increases the amount of work as you may have to fill in "pinpricks" where the surface snaps.

Because of the shrinking effect just slap it on with a tank brush or 2" brush for scenary, and let the gesso do the job for you.

Heya , just time for a quick update..
MAGNETSSSSSSSSSSSSS YESSSS, Tzeentch is pleased with the amount of change possiblesss yessss.


Mr Awesome... if his missile launcher doesn't get you his skull hilt bolt pistol will.. oh wait maybe he'll just melta your face off cos he's so darn cool.. (legs needed to be torn to shreds and then repinned to get him mounting that rock..)


Sternguard/kantor/regular fist seargent

Nice work KMB. It looks like we "magnetizers" have another convert!

I've just been given some magnets to try out. i really need two more though to magnetize my trygon / trygon prime. It's really going to be the test bed for future projects.
I like 'Mr Awesome' "I've got magnets, I can swap weapons! Yeeeeaahhh! Come get some xenos!"

Cheers guys... i've actually been a fanatic hailing the praise of magnets since around here Where every torso and every arm and some weapons were magnetised.... then I did all the speeders, I haven't shown pics of the termies I've done etc etc etc etc )..reminds me I really ought to update my bike pics.
Mr Awesomes skull hilted gun is (of course) from the arm of a chainsword..I didn't realise.. until his awesomeness was revealed.

Angelwing.. I wouldn't *start* getting into magnets with something expensive.. it took me ages to work out what combo to use... I use a hand drill and a workbench.. lots of 3mms (drillbit and magnets).. I check polarity with previous bits(because I want there to be consistency so i can interchange termie dread speeder biker bits..but also because I want the 2 things to work together) use a red marker pen so I remember which way its meant to be facing, drown the hole in glue and then shove gingerly with my thumb whilst the glue overflows..(reliant on the hole being the perfect depth or it goes to deep and won't hold weight, or goes in too shallow at a horrible angle and won't look right).
Saw an old stealer in half and practice on him first if there is any oppurtunity..

GESSO THREAD- painting-modelling/brushes-t4480.html

lostandthedamned wrote:Gesso has a texture similar to yogurt. Once it drys on a tile/container you can peel it off like rubber. Although you can clean up with water (wash brushes out normally) you cannot thin it with water as that affects the drying instead a special thinner is required. In fact as is shown in the Dakkadakka article I linked before, thinning down only increases the amount of work as you may have to fill in "pinpricks" where the surface snaps.

Because of the shrinking effect just slap it on with a tank brush or 2" brush for scenary, and let the gesso do the job for you.

I've been using gesso for about a month now, and I've been able to thin mine fine with water (most of what I read suggested distilled water for thinning)

Didn't seem to massively affect the figures compared to when I had tried using it "neat"

I'm using bob ross grey gesso which got lots of rave reviews for mini priming, apparently different brands are wildly variable.

killmaimburn wrote:Ch I use a hand drill and a workbench.. lots of 3mms (drillbit and magnets).. I check polarity with previous bits(because I want there to be consistency so i can interchange termie dread speeder biker bits..but also because I want the 2 things to work together) use a red marker pen so I remember which way its meant to be facing, drown the hole in glue and then shove gingerly with my thumb whilst the glue overflows..(reliant on the hole being the perfect depth or it goes to deep and won't hold weight, or goes in too shallow at a horrible angle and won't look right).

I use a hand drill also KMB, 2 as a matter of fact. First I use a regular point bit the diameter I need for the magnet. Once I have it the proper depth, the obvious problem is that the point of the drill bit is a taper. So I next "clean up" the hole for the magnet with one of these;



This one is from Dremel, (site here) and the nice part about using this cutter is that the 'point' of the cutter is flat. After you have the hole for the magnet drilled, you use this tool to flatten the bottom of the hole. The result is that the magnet fits flat and perfectly flush with the surface of the model. Plus you use considerably less super glue to hold it in.
I also took an old popsicle stick, cut the rounded end off at an angle and tapered one side. I use this homemade tool to set the magnet in place.

You have the right idea using a marker to designate the polarity, I do that myself, as well as keeping the magnets in the same orientation for different arms so they can be interchanged between models.

I've been meaning to upload a games batrep for ages, but the place is quiet and the game was a bit one sided. So I'll skip that, but I said ages back that I had brought the other bikes into the colour scheme so here is a pic of that.
I just need to ignore that guard exist and bring them out some time.

Hmmm, excellent bike armada!

Very cool!
Looks like Sturgis on the right and Aberdeen proving ground on the left, with a bit of air cav in the rear!

Very nicely done!

The monstrous pink squiggoth in the background is cool too, forgeworld?

all ready for AoS next year?

Pure Whitscar was always the super soft lower middle list (I read recently that the wild plains white scars would rather kill a bloke than put them into the trapped confines of a dreadnought but I only found that out last week)...but I do need a new tourney list.
something,anything that can once in 8 games get a draw against autowin crutch guard.
I'm painting more skaven and my assualt marines...but I really can't think of any sort of list that its worth playing the game with around those bozos.
Meh game is shit.. needs more bloodbowl and square base (current projects)

Inspired by so many folks dreadbashing, and reckoning that the AOBR dread was no big deal...I decided to dread bash my most boring and generic dread (and because he was boring he also was the least painted, one shoulde purple, one face plate silver done..anyway.. retrieving my hack saw from the garage and waiting for it to thor out (thaw)..I started my mission.
So first how many cuts are the minimum you have to make to an AOBR dread? Red lines indicate cuts (that underbelly was a nightmare

In bits, torso has a washer put on it immediately to dry out(as I'm going to be stacking on that in an hour

Arm sockets sawn right to a thin line at the top, then wedged with angle cut spru and sandwiched with glue to create a solid angled socket for dread arms.

Create a knee (some of you have done this to make a kneeling smurf or maybe even a wraithlord..I was going for a crouching dreadnought at this stage)

Pinning it into the hip it ended up looking like an impacting foot from a run, so quickly saw off one toe and lift it forwards to absorb the impact (and to have anything in contact with the base).. I also try to claw up the 2 highest toes of the running leg for a claw contraction effect works ok although none of the pics show it).

Saw a washer in half (this took up 1 hour of the 3 hours this took..I just want you to know..I was glue covered and the mofo wouldn't sit in my fingers whilst I ploughed my hack saw into my palm repeatedly A+E awesome

O crap not load bearing, that second legs 2 adjusted toes aren't enough to hold the entire body and weapons.. quickly paperclip pin into that leg.. also use a big fat wodge of brass cable to pin through centre column.

Jesse owens dreadnought likes to help people in danger far away..arms-a-pumping.

Reservoir dogs pose with a few of the other dreads. (looks like he's wearing one of those off the shelf suits )

Needs some guitar string piping adding.. needs a few bits filling.. but I'm only 3 hours from "oh I think I should mess around with that fella".. give me a chance to have a cup of tea.