<![CDATA[Age of Strife Spack's Blog Feed]]> https://www.ageofstrife.com <![CDATA[Predator P1 Bio 1/4 scale 3D modelling continued]]> https://www.ageofstrife.com/blog/Spack/predator_p1_bio_14_scale_3d_modelling_continued_b-177_sid-6209032a890f01c73b54ba5ec5e48bcf.html blog/Spack/predator_bio_mask_14_scale_modelling_b-176.html

I finally got around to working on the 3D model again, and have reached a point where I'm happy with the details and have prepared the model for printing. As well as finishing the interior venting details, the hose connector on the left temple was replaced with something closer to that used on the NECA Big Red figure (the Big Red bio is almost identical to the original P1 helmet, the only differences being the two half spheres on the forehead and the colour), and a small hose connector detail was added to the left cheek (this detail is missing from the NECA bios).

pdo mask with shell smoothed face vent clean lasers temple pipe.png

pdo mask with...

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<![CDATA[Predator bio mask 1/4 scale modelling]]> https://www.ageofstrife.com/blog/Spack/predator_bio_mask_14_scale_modelling_b-176_sid-6209032a890f01c73b54ba5ec5e48bcf.html
I already had a rough mesh of the head from the closed mouth Predator that I'd created using 123d Catch on my phone, and sized in Sketchup to be as close to the physical version as possible. Using this I was then able to scale the pepakura mesh to the head, leaving a little...

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<![CDATA[Minecraft Sword]]> https://www.ageofstrife.com/blog/Spack/minecraft_sword_b-175_sid-6209032a890f01c73b54ba5ec5e48bcf.html

After allowing to dry this was then cut out using a steel rule and a scalpel. As it's a little thin a second one was made, and then these glued back to back with the edges coloured using felt pen. Finally cellotape was wrapped around it to help protect it against all the bumps it will get while it's swung around, and to stop the two halves coming apart.


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<![CDATA[1/72 BF 109 Propeller Repair]]> https://www.ageofstrife.com/blog/Spack/172_bf_109_propeller_repair_b-147_sid-6209032a890f01c73b54ba5ec5e48bcf.html
Luckily I have some Oyamru "instant mold" that I bought a few years ago, and has previously been used in other projects. This stuff is great, as it's a thermal setting plastic - when it's put in boiling water for about a minute it goes very soft, and then hardens as it cools. Once cool it holds a perfect impression of the item it has been molded around. I couldn't find any "green stuff" putty kicking...

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<![CDATA[Painting the Tiger I - 1/87 scale card model]]> https://www.ageofstrife.com/blog/Spack/painting_the_tiger_i_187_scale_card_model_b-144_sid-6209032a890f01c73b54ba5ec5e48bcf.html http://sega.jp/pc/soft/advd2001/img/pm3_01_.jpg (instructions here: http://sega.jp/pc/soft/advd2001/sp_pmt1.html ). This is a 1/144 scale model, but I needed 1/87 to match the scale of the Panzerzug train being built so scaled it up in Photoshop and rearranged the components to fit on an A4 sheet of card.

Here's the model built, with the original inkjet colouring. I've left the tracks off to make them easier to paint.


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