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Hunter's page of useful tips

Want to show off your painted figures? Got a cool conversion? Need some ideas?

Re: Hunter's page of useful tips

Postby hunter101 » Thu Aug 11, 2011 7:19 pm

How to make Custom bases.
Well for 1. Only ever you's GS for adding Detail to a base.
All other times yous wood and plasti-card If you are going to go Mental and go all the way.
Ial show you this when I do the contempter Dread's base.

What you need to Know for eg. Is a set theem. Were are the troops in your head at and stick to that Idea.
eg. Tiled flouring like my GK were on. Once you have got the basics right Adding Flock is simple.

Another eg for you. Tiled base with a blast crater in it. the grass near the crater will be brown or black. The rest will be green.

Rocks are the same. closer to the rock will me more rock or sand or brown grass.

Sand is good for braking up large bits of grass.

Now Personally I have never you'sd Snow. Tho brown flock spayed white would probably do it. Or very very fine sand. Or even Snow flock. :)
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Re: Hunter's page of useful tips

Postby timewizard » Thu Aug 11, 2011 9:01 pm

Ljundhammer wrote:C'mon then hunter.

Give a crappy moddler like me a breakdown of basing. Stuff like:

How to make a custom base using GS/modelling putty
Other ways of making great bases
Using flock
Making snow


Not to take anything away from hunter, but check this site out;

http://one-ring.co.uk/kb.php?a=38
"I have found again and again that in encounter actions, the day goes to the side that is the first to plaster its opponent with fire." - Erwin Rommel
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Re: Hunter's page of useful tips

Postby hunter101 » Thu Aug 11, 2011 9:06 pm

timewizard. Spot on dood. This makes explaining mutch better for me. :)
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Re: Hunter's page of useful tips

Postby timewizard » Thu Aug 11, 2011 9:09 pm

Anytime!
Great thing about this site is people helping each other out with advice and links!
"I have found again and again that in encounter actions, the day goes to the side that is the first to plaster its opponent with fire." - Erwin Rommel
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Re: Hunter's page of useful tips

Postby hunter101 » Thu Aug 11, 2011 9:29 pm

Exactly why I like it. :)
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Re: Hunter's page of useful tips

Postby Ljundhammer » Fri Aug 12, 2011 7:25 am

Cheers guys - you're awesome!

Looking forward to the dread....
When in deadly danger
When beset by doubt
Run in little circles
Wave your arms and shout
- parody of the litany of command
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Re: Hunter's page of useful tips

Postby Herne » Fri Aug 12, 2011 9:53 am

hunter101 wrote:....Black. Always Black. Even if it is going to be white. Black is a stronger shade than white. So Black first and then 1 or 2 LIGHT coats of white. You will get Shading that will help you determine what is light and dark. Some say Grey is ace. But look at the model and 9 out of 10 times its always grey already. Grey has no shading or depth of field.


A great idea for a Thread Hunter. However - Sorry pal - gotta call you on this one. Hope you don't mind, but if it's about good advice for other painters and modellers I feel that there is more to be said on undercoating:

Black:
Black is generally, as Hunter says, the best colour for most purposes. It gives a better base to metal colours, and helps bring out the depth of stronger colours and any deep recesses that get missed remain black. Black is cool! I have yet to find a spray better than GW's - perhaps somone else might have done?

White:
Almost never use white myself. However, white can be useful if you are doing very pale colour schemes like pale fleshes, or models painted mostly with washes or ink glazes. Bit of an arty method, but it can work. White also brings out brighter colours under most colours. Reds and oranges painted over white become more vibrant. It's also much easier to paint yellows over white. A good tip for patch colours is spray the models black or grey, then hand coat an area white before painting over it with your yellows. Again I have used GW white, but someone out there may have found a better or cheaper one?

Grey:
hunter101 wrote:....Grey has no shading or depth of field.

That's kind of the point. Grey is neutral. This follows the photographers idea of using a neutral grey card for getting good light balances when setting up a studio camera. It neither darkens a colour scheme, nor does it lighten it like black and white do. The colour you get over the model is then exactly the colour you put on it, giving the painter greater control (or finer control) over the pallette. I tend to use grey a lot for neutral colour schemes like greens and browns. (Halfords grey is fantastic, it even leaves a slightly rough surface that takes paint beautifully.)

Overall:
All in all then the best advice to to consider what the models majority 'finish' will look like. Dark evil characters or lots of dark or strong colours or mettalics - go with black. Bright finishes or 'washed' looks, go white. Mid-tones or natural colours - go grey.
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Re: Hunter's page of useful tips

Postby hunter101 » Fri Aug 12, 2011 10:07 am

Nice to see your on this page Herne. Hope your well.

For light colors I spray Black 1st then whit over it. And if needed dry brushed white. If you dry brush white it might look a tad yellow or dirty as the pigment in the spray is difforent from the paint tub. But dont be alarmed as the purity seal puts this right.

But as you get more experience You will Tinker and develop your own way of painting.
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Re: Hunter's page of useful tips

Postby Herne » Fri Aug 12, 2011 9:40 pm

hunter101 wrote:Nice to see your on this page Herne. Hope your well.

Cheers pal - been a black n bleak time in my life recently for reasons I won't go into and haven't been able to pick up a paintbrush, but am mending slowly so the call of the acryllic is slowly coming back.
Worth a mention about the joys of oyamaru plastic when mentioning bases too. Make one, cast many!
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Re: Hunter's page of useful tips

Postby hunter101 » Sun Aug 14, 2011 10:54 am

Oyamaru plastic. I have not yous'ed that in a long time. Got turned to the Grey side with Pro sculpt.

Welcome back Herne.
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Re: Hunter's page of useful tips

Postby Cain Tiberius » Sun Aug 14, 2011 11:29 am

A question regarding Oyamaru.

Spack recomended something called Oynamaru to me. And I have also seen on google, Oyumaru and Oynumaru. Are they all just the same stuff miss spelled? (its not the easiest thing to spell..) or different products? They all seem to related to modeling material.
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Re: Hunter's page of useful tips

Postby hunter101 » Sun Aug 14, 2011 12:00 pm

I believe Oyamaru plastic is the correct spelling. Also Instant Mold is a good tool for making back up cast's.
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Re: Hunter's page of useful tips

Postby ruffian4 » Sun Aug 14, 2011 12:01 pm

Herne wrote:been a black n bleak time in my life recently for reasons I won't go into

Wishing you well, mate.
:D
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Re: Hunter's page of useful tips

Postby Angelwing » Thu Oct 06, 2011 11:46 pm

hunter, can you share your recipe for the force weapons you have painted for your grey knights?
I could have sworn you posted a tutorial somewhere but I can't locate it. A buddy of mine really likes the effect and wishes to have a go himself.
Cheers
:D
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Re: Hunter's page of useful tips

Postby timewizard » Fri Oct 07, 2011 12:07 am

"I have found again and again that in encounter actions, the day goes to the side that is the first to plaster its opponent with fire." - Erwin Rommel
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